Description

Shea et al identified a number of hand injuries that occur in rock climbers. Tremendous forces may be placed on small surfaces, which can result in significant damage to soft tissue. The authors are from the UCLA School of Medicine.


 

Types of climbing:

(1) bouldering

(2) face climbing

(3) buildings ("buildering")

 

Basic hand grips used in rock climbing:

(1) open grip (grasping large handholds)

(2) cling grip (hyperextending the distal interphalangeal joints)

(3) pocket grip (inserting fingers in small holes)

(4) pinch grip (pinching rock between thumb and forefinger)

(5) crack climbing (wedging fingers, hands or feet into cracks)

 

Injuries to the fingers:

(1) acute or chronic pain in the distal interphalangeal or proximal interphalangeal joints

(2) digital avulsion injuries to distal or proximal interphalangeal joint

(3) sprains and tears of the collateral ligament of the proximal interphalangeal joint

(4) injury to the A2 pulley of the flexor sheath

(5) fixed flexion deformity of the proximal interphalangeal joint

(6) rupture of the flexor digitorum superficialis tendon

(7) tendon nodules

(8) sprain of the ulnar collateral ligament of the first metacarpophalangeal joint

 

Additional hand injuries:

(1) abrasions ("gobies")

(2) carpal tunnel syndrome

(3) long-term degenerative arthritis

(4) fracture of phalangeal, carpal or forearm bones

(5) crush injury

(6) overuse injury

(7) splinters

(8) damage to fingernails

(9) hypertrophic scar tissue

 

Many rock climbers will continue to climb despite injury. This may make an existing injury worse or result in new injury.

 


To read more or access our algorithms and calculators, please log in or register.