Chang et al graded beaches based on certain physical features. The grade of the beach correlates with the risk associated with water activities. The authors are from the University of Hawaii.
Parameters:
(1) energy of waves
(2) form of wave
(3) slope of the ocean bottom
Wave Energy
Wave Form
Slope to Bottom
Grade
low
non-breaking
minimal (flat)
1
low to moderate
spilling or feathering
gradual
2
moderate
plunging or tubular
moderate
3
high
plunging or tubular
steep
4
In a Grade 4 beach the surf breaks in water that is shallow relative to the height of the wave because of the steepness to the beach bottom.
Grade
Shorebreak
1
none
2
mild
3
moderate
4
severe
The risk of using a beach increases as the beach grade increases.
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